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Is there a 'Climbing Certification War' starting?

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Rick Curtis Posted: 02-20-2008 10:02 AM

Last month the formation of the Professional Climbing Instructors Association (PCIA) was announced (http://www.outdoored.com/news/templateoe.aspx?articleid=3436) and one of their new initiatives is the PCIA Climbing Wall Instructor™ course. Last week the Climbing Wall Association (CWA) in collaboration with the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) just announced a Climbing Wall Instructor (CWI) Certification Program (http://www.outdoored.com/news/templateoe.aspx?articleid=3507). Now that the Blu-Ray/HD-DVD war is over (Blu-Ray won), is this the next conflict? What do people think this means for the industry?

--------------- Rick Curtis CEO OutdoorEd.com Director, Princeton University Outdoor Action Program

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John Jacobs replied on 02-20-2008 2:04 PM
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In general, I am in favor of the formation of another resource by which climbing instructors can find professional certification and instruction. The original Top Rope Site Manager course that the AMGA created was/is the most practical training &certification option they offer. The reality is that 90% (my SWAG estimation) of climbing participation days are done in a top-rope managed activity, not on some Grade VI alpine wall in the middle of the North Cascades (which is primarily where the AMGA has focussed it's energies over the years).
 
There has been a longstanding resistance within the AMGA to developing the TRSM (now Single Pitch Instructor) program amongst the old guard, and though a few people in the program have persisted with trying to develop it, the AMGA has not devoted enough resources to it (IMO). The primary drivers of the new PCIA are closely connected with the old TRSM development, and I am quite confident in their technical expertise to develop such a program and certification.
 
Having said all this, I do have concerns that the 'certification war' that it may create is potentially detrimental to the overall effort to have the outdoor adventure industry gain better recognition by the mainstream world (whatever that is). While I understand the PCIA does not intend to be seen as a competing certifying agency, and would like to build reciprocal relationships with the AMGA, it is yet to be seen as to whether this will actually happen. (Having been in the climbing industry for a long time, I fear that the strong egos and posturing may not allow this to happen.) As we have all witnessed in the case of organizations such as ACCT & PRCA, or the earlier AMGA-USMGA tiff, these kinds of turf wars are not particularly becoming of an industry that is working hard toward broader recognition.
 
Bottom line- more training opportunities from qualified training organizations is a good thing. I welcome the PCIA, and wish it well.

_________________________________________
John Jacobs
Adventure Risk Management
PO Box 1160
Idyllwild, California  92549
www.adventureriskmanagement.com
jjacobs@adventureriskmanagement.com
951.659.4090
951.659.4091 fax

Adventure, Smarter.

-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Curtis [mailto:bounce-Rick_Curtis@outdoored.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 7:06 AM
To: jjacobs@adventureriskmanagement.com
Subject: [General Forum] Is there a 'Climbing Certification War' starting?

Last month the formation of the Professional Climbing Instructors Association (PCIA) was announced (http://www.outdoored.com/news/templateoe.aspx?articleid=3436) and one of their new initiatives is the PCIA Climbing Wall Instructor™ course. Last week the Climbing Wall Association (CWA) in collaboration with the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) just announced a Climbing Wall Instructor (CWI) Certification Program (http://www.outdoored.com/news/templateoe.aspx?articleid=3507). Now that the Blu-Ray/HD-DVD war is over (Blu-Ray won), is this the next conflict? What do people think this means for the industry?




_________________________________________ John Jacobs Adventure Risk Management PO Box 1160 Idyllwild, CA 92549 951.659.4090 Adventure, Smarter.

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Rick Curtis replied on 02-20-2008 2:44 PM
Good points John. It's interesting to see the differences in other areas like First Aid and Avalanche Training. A WFR certification means the same thing eveywhere even though there are many different companies teaching to the same standard. Also the American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education (AIARE) has gotten the various stakeholders to agree to what should be taught and then various companies and programs teach the curriculum. What makes me nervous is "competing" certifications and one trying to establish dominance over another. I'd much rather see collaboration as you said around things like what a Climbing Wall Instructor is supposed to know and let both organizations offer that course instead of each one trying to be ' Blu-Ray over HD-DVD."
 
---------------------------------------
Rick Curtis
Director, Outdoor Action Program
Princeton University
609-258-5621
http://www.princeton.edu/~oa/
 

--------------- Rick Curtis CEO OutdoorEd.com Director, Princeton University Outdoor Action Program

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