The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program is the only nationally and internationally recognized single pitch climbing instructor certification program. In 2009, the AMGA Single
Pitch Instructor Program was recognized for meeting the “training standards” of the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) and was granted the prestigious title of “Approved Association.” No other organization in the United States offering training in single pitch terrain can make that claim. Also, the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program is recognized by many land managers, insurance companies, other associations and of course the general public.
The SPI program is for active climbers that have a real desire to teach rock climbing to novices in a single pitch setting. Candidates should be passionate climbers with their own equipment (SPI Equipment List), regularly climb and have been rock climbing outdoors for at least 12 months.
Important: You must register with the AMGA to take this course. AMGA.com
SPI Course Length
The SPI Program is a three-day (27 hour) training course and separate two day (16 hour) assessment. Certification lasts for three years as long as the candidate keeps current AMGA Membership and First Aid Certification. After three years current SPI’s can re-take the SPI Assessment to re-gain the SPI certification. Taking any higher level AMGA Course also re-certifies the SPI certification for another three years.
SPI Course Prerequisites
You meet the prerequisites for the SPI course if you:
Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch crags.
Are at least 18 years old at the time of the course.
Have at least 12 months prior climbing experience.
Are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).
Have lead a minimum of 15 traditional rock routes (any grade).
Are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.
The above prerequisites are absolute minimums and most candidates have excess of the above. Without having at least this amount experience you are unlikely to play a constructive part on the course or be able to make the best use of the training. If you are unsure of your skill level or your readiness to take the SPI course, please contact the WLI office with your questions.
SPI Course Schedule
- Session 1: SPI and AMGA Program Overview
- Session 2: Professionalism
- Session 3: Equipment
- Session 4: Knots and Hitches
- Session 5: Belaying
- Session 6: Protection and Anchoring
- Session 7: Teaching
- End of Day Debriefs
- Session 8: The Climbing Site
- Session 9: Site Organization and Group Management
- Session 10: Base Managed Sites
- Session 11: Assistance Skills – Base Managed Sites
- Session 12: Programming and Risk Management
- End of Day Debriefs
- Session 13: Instructor Demo Lead Climb
- Session 14: Top Managed Sites
- Session 15: Lowering
- Session 16: Assistance Skills – Top Managed Sites
- Session 17: Rappelling
- Session 18: Climbing Movement
- Session 19: Review Sessions
- Final Individual and Group Debriefs