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Crack Footwork – Jay Smith

Video Release Date: February 1, 2009
Video Source: YouTube

October 2008 Splitter Camp, Indian Creek, Utah. Bill Segal climbs Chocolate Corner 5.9, Donnelly Canyon. This was the first day and first climb of the Camp. After this climb Jay critiques Bills footwork, recommending he keep his right foot in the crack for upward progress, and only use footholds out on the right face for resting. This first day we learned a lot about weight transfer, especially helpful for crack climbing. With Jay’s coaching, buy the end of the third day Bill was cruising 10c crack routes (albeit on top rope since there is no client leading at Splitter Camp) and showing incredible progress. An intense three-day crack indoctrination, but getting crack mileage in really enables progress.

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